| A Medley of Fennel, Onion and Parmesan
One of the objectives of this Web site is to encourage experienced home
cooks to try different products. Fennel is a prime candidate.
More people would venture forth to try this crisp, sweet scented vegetable,
with edible bulbs and stems and graceful (dill-like) aromatic foliage garnish,
if grocerers would stop labeling it “anise” or “sweet anise”, which
it is not, and more consistently label it “fennel,” “bulbing fennel” and/or
finocchio fennel (from Italy, where it got its start). Schneider
as well as Herbst make the point the fennel
is not anise and has a much sweeter, more delicate and complex taste than
licorice, especially when cooked. Thomas Jefferson reportedly labored
to cultivate fennel in Monticello on the recommendation of his friend Thomas
Appleton, then American consul in Florence.
What to do with the stuff? It's versatile. Fennel can be
prepared and served raw like cabbage, braised like endive and celeriac,
or sautéed or grilled like onions. Served raw, it favors the
company of prosciutto, smoked salmon, oranges, cold slaw or vinaigrette.
Braised, it can served as a side (dressed as above) or be pureed and joined
with mashed potatoes. For all, fennel is in love with Parmesan cheese.
At the produce counter, choose fennel with nice looking bulbs, without
browned edges, and lacy green foliage. Schneider says that if the
foliage has been cut off, complain to your grocer). Despite its hardy
appearance, fennel does not keep well for more than four days, refrigerated.
That's why browned bulbs in the grocery should be avoided as over the hill.
Here we have a nice side dish that goes especially well with fish, though
we had it a couple of days ago with rib eye steak. The ratio of fennel
to onion is a chef's choice. At school, we made it as 4 parts fennel
and 1 part onion, without cheese. I like 1:1 or 2:1 better and certainly
with a little cheese. French cooks call this a “fondue”—a mixture
of vegetables, cooked slowly, and served as a garnish. That's nice,
but in this country, a “fondue” refers to food cooked in a pot at the table.
So, to avoid confusion, let's call what we're after here a “medley.”
A Medley of Fennel, Onion and Parmesan Cheese
Yield: 2 generous servings
See Abbreviations, if needed
· 1
fennel bulb, halved and cored (1 part)
· 1-2
onions, thinly sliced (1 part)
· 2 T
butter
· 8-12 oz
chicken broth or stock
· salt
to taste (needs quite a lot)
· white pepper freshly ground,
to taste
· 1/3 C
freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1. Remove the green portion of the stalks and ferns from the fennel,
half the bulb lengthwise and remove the core
2. Run the fennel halves through a food processor using a blade
appropriate for cold slaw, and set aside
3. Slice a large onion thinly and sweat in butter to translucent
in an medium size evasée
or high-sided sauté pan
4. Add the shredded fennel and season generously with salt and
white pepper
5. Add chicken broth to a level just below covering the onion/fennel
mix
6. BTB, reduce heat and simmer covered until all is tender, about
35 minutes
7. When done, adjust seasoning
8. Transfer the hot confit from the pan into a colander to drain
9. When ready to serve:
· Return the drained
confit to the pan
· Reheat
· Add the grated
cheese and stir in thoroughly to melt
10. Serve hot with fish or meat
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