GeezerGourmet.com seeks to foster a renewed interest
in home culinary arts among experienced home cooks
The GeezerGourmet (brief bio) caters to
clientele who have life-long experiences in home cooking and now, as empty
nesters and retirees, have the time to renew their love of good food and
its preparation. The Geezer Gourmet assumes
that you routinely cook for one or two people; eat out quite often;
still like to entertain and are experienced at it; have adequately equipped
kitchens; and enjoy life and good heath.
If you have some of the above attributes but are not a geezer nor even
approaching pre-geezerhood, thank God for that, press on regardless, and
welcome.
This is not a Website for food phobics or wellness hypochondriacs
Happy Fourth of July
EGGPLANT STACK
Eggplants
look glorious this time of year. Stack 'em high! This is a nice vegetarian
dish or a great side with a small meat portion. BTW, I've given up
on "salting to sweat" eggplant. The science is shakey and it adds
too much salt: just oil them up and go.
Eggplant Stack
Yield: about 2 servings per eggplant
See Abbreviations, if needed
2 large deep
purple eggplants
1 large Vidalia
or white sweet onion
1-2 bell peppers
3T Italian, Mexican or French seasoning,
of choice
1/4C EVOO
S/P to taste, but don't over salt the
eggplant
2C tomato sauce, of choice
3/4C freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1. Preheat oven to 400F
2. Slice the eggplant into rounds 1/2 inch thick
(3 per serving); leave the skin on for now
3. Slice peeled onions into thin rounds and set aside
4. Slice the bell pepper into rings ¼ inch
thick, clean out the center of the rings
5. Place the eggplant rounds on a greased sheet pan
(or Pam sprayed)
6. Dust generously with seasoning and drizzle generously
with EVOO
8. Place a bell pepper ring of each eggplant
9. Place an onion round on top of each pepper ring
pepper ring
9. Bake at 400F for about 22 minutes
10. Prepare the tomato sauce
11. Remove sheet pan from oven and let cool, leave the oven on
12. To assemble and serve:
• Remove the pepper and onion from each eggplant round and set aside
• Remove eggplant skins (optional—use a scissors)
• Drizzle tomato sauce over each eggplant round
• Dust generously with the grated cheese. Replace the pepper
and onion and add
a little more sauce and cheese
• Repeat with two more eggplant/pepper/onion combinations--creating
a stack three high
• Add remaining sauce and top with remaining cheese
• Return sheet pan to oven to reheat the stacks and melt the cheese,
about 8 minutes
• Serve immediately on heated plates as a vegetarian entree or with
meat or poultry
Coconut Shrimp (revised)
Coconut Shrimp (revised)
Shrimp, coated with coconut and then deep fried is a popular dish in
Zihuatanejo, Mexico. We did this dish again last week. I've revised
the recipe by calling for unsweetened shredded coconut and removing the
sweetened coconut option, increasing the shredded coconut, reducing the
Panko--all to enhance the coconut flavor.
NOTE: We're going to use what's called a breading station.
The trick is to move the shrimp from one pan to the next while keeping
one hand dry and the other wet, otherwise it turns into a wretched mess
and your fingers are stuck together indefinitely.
Yield: 2-3 servings
See Abbreviations, if needed
· 3/4C unbleached all purpose
flour
· 1t
hot paprika
· 1/2t salt
· 1/2t freshly
ground pepper
· 1/2t sugar
· 2
eggs
· 1.5C unsweetened shredded
coconut
· 3/4C Panko (Japanese bread
crumbs)
· 1 lb large raw shrimp,
peeled and deveined (about 6 [10-15 count] shrimp per person)
· 1.5 C grapeseed, vegetable or
peanut oil if using a wok, (about 3 cups if using a Dutch oven)
1. Set up a "breading station" to coat the shrimp:
(using three dishes and two hands--one "dry hand"
and the other "wet hand"
· Combine flour, paprika, S/P
and sugar and place in a shallow dish, far left
· Beat the eggs lightly with
a little water and place in the second shallow dish, center
· Combine the coconut and Panko
and place in the third shallow dish, far right
2. With the left hand, drop a few shrimp into the flour mixture,
coat thoroughly and
then transfer the shrimp to the egg
mixture
3. With the right hand, swish the shrimp to thoroughly coat them
with egg
4. Again with the right hand, transfer the egged shrimp into
the coconut/Panko mixture and coat thoroughly
5. Again with the right hand place the coated shrimp on a rack
to await frying
6. Repeat with all the remaining shrimp
7. Heat the cooking oil in a wok or Dutch oven to 375F. Use
a thermometer!
8. Carefully place a few shrimp in the oil and immediately increase
heat to get the oil back
up to 350F to 375F
9. Swish the shrimp in the hot oil until golden, about 2 minutes
10. With a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the deep fried shrimp
to a rack and place in
warming drawer or oven
11. When all the shrimp are prepared, serve immediately
12. Coconut shrimp can be accompanied with red onions, orange
and lime slices
and/or chutney
Cold Soups are in for Summer
Vichyssoise
We're in the season for cold soups. Vichyssoise is very popular.
It is a cold, pureed and strained version of potato and leek soup, with
special handling. Note the following:
· Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than
hot soups.
· Cold soups require more seasoning than hot soups
because cold dulls the sense
of taste. It follows, that seasoning should
be adjusted only after the soup has
been chilled.
· Add the half and half at the last minute.
· If some of the soup is to be set-aside for tomorrow
or to be frozen, do not add half
and half to that portion.
· Always serve cold soups very cold.
VICHYSSOISE (revised)
A cold leek and potato soup
Yield: 1 quart, about 6 servings
See Abbreviations, if needed
• 1
onion, diced
• 5
leeks, white to very light green part only, sliced
• 2 T butter
• 1
garlic clove, pureed
• 1
sachet of Herbes de Provence or of bay and thyme leaves, pepper
corns and parsley stems
• 1 qt chicken stock or canned
broth (watch the salt)
• 5
large red or white potatoes, peeled and diced
• 1/2 C half and half
• 4 oz creme fraiche
• 2 T fresh chopped parsley
•
salt and white pepper (this soup needs quite a lot of salt)
1. Sweat diced onion and leeks in butter to well done, but not
browned (about 10 minutes)
2. Add garlic, sachet of herbs and chicken stock. BTB and
then simmer
3. Add potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are done
4. Strain the hot soup through a food mill, not a food processor.
Then, if it is still way too thick
and not smooth, puree it with your stick blender
or food processor. See note
5. Chill the soup
6. At the last minute, add half and half to thin the soup to
desired consistency
7. Adjust seasoning
8. Serve cold, garnished with a piped dollop of creme fraiche
and a spring of parsley
Note: Step 4: A food processor will chop up all the tough fibrous
leeks while a food mill will strain most
of them out leaving a more refined soup.
Summer Picnics, Cook Outs and
"The Danger Zone"
Time for the annual Food safety lecture:
What should be said about food safety to this audience of seasoned home
cooks? Got to say something since you will never get over making
your guests sick--and it can happen and it can be avoided.
The first two of three bottom lines are that bacteria need temperature
and time to grow and give off toxins. So, keep these numbers in mind:
· The “danger zone” wherein bacteria grow rapidly is 40ºF
to 140ºF.
· In four hours of accumulated time, in the danger zone, rapid
growth of bacteria may occur.
Apply these data to a potato salad scenario for a charity affair and
we have the following:
|
Event |
Time the mayo is in the Danger Zone |
| Mayo is taken out of the fridge, mixed with Dijon mustard, diced olives,
pickles, onions, lardons of bacon and whatever and set aside. |
20 minutes |
| Potatoes are then peeled, cubed, boiled and set aside to cool. |
20 minutes |
| The eggs are hard boiled and set aside to cool and be sliced. |
20 minutes |
| The potatoes and eggs are added to the mayo. |
|
| The salad—all ingredients are now at ambient temperature, say 70ºF—is
placed in the fridge to await the trip to the charity event. It never cools
to 40ºF. |
60 minutes |
| The salad is loaded into the car and makes the trip to the charity
event where it is placed on the serving table just in time for the buffet—a
two-hour affair. |
60 minutes |
| There is a good crowd, but plenty of potato salad for the late arrivals. |
120 minutes |
Add up the time in the danger zone and we get 5 hours. The late
diners are at risk from the potato salad!
The third bottom line is “cross contamination”—that is, the transfer
of harmful microorganisms from one item of food to another by means of
surface contact (knives, boards and hands) or storage and thawing in contact
with other food items. The villain here is the live pathogenic salmonella,
which is the source of most frequently reported foodborne infections. The
heroes are space, soap, water and cooking temperatures. Prepare and
store raw meat separate from other products, wash knives, steels, boards
and hands with soap and hot water upon completion and cook meat products
to temperatures recommended by the USDA—poultry and sausages for sure (165ºF).
They're in Season Again
Rainer
cherries have the highest sugar content of all cheeries on the market.
They're seasonal and so delicious that they are part of Spring in this
kitchen. Look for them in your better markets over the next three
weeks, or so.
Peanut Butter Cookie with Coconut
Flakes and Heath Bits
Here
is my peanut butter cookie with the addition of coconut flakes, which serve
both as a binder and added texture surprise, and Hearth Bar bits in the
cookie and on the top, along with one strategically placed peanut half.
The coconut flakes are unsweetened but sweetened would be OK. (Since I
prefer unsweetened coconut for all savory recipes there is always some
in the pantry.) Whole Foods carries it.
Peanut Butter Cookies with Coconut Flakes and Heath Bits
See Abbreviations, if needed
Yield: 36 cookies
½ lb (2 sticks)
butter
1C firmly
packed dark brown sugar
1C sugar
1t
vanilla extract
2½.C AP flour
½ t
baking soda
½ t
baking powder
1C chunky
peanut butter
2
eggs
1C unsweetened
coconut flakes
½ C Heath Bar bits
1. Preheat oven to 350F
2. Cream together butter and sugars in the KA, add vanilla
3. Sift together flour, baking soda and baking powder
4. Add peanut butter and eggs
5. Add flour mixture
6. Add coconut and Heath bits, mix briefly, remove KA bowl, finish
by hand and fridge to hold
7. Scoop dough with 2 TB scoop (#36) and place well apart on
sheet pans or cookie sheets
lined with parchment paper or silicone mat
8. Flatten balls with crisscrossed meat tenderizer mallet
9. Top each cookie with a peanut half and a couple pinches
of Heath bits
10. Bake 12-14 minutes, or 11 minutes if using a convection oven,
until puffed and edges
are just starting to brown
Apricot, Coconut and Chocolate Chip
Scones
I forgot
how the subject of scones came up while at a beach house in Florida two
weeks ago. but as soon as we got home I looked for recipes. Clayton's
Complete Book of Breads, which is pretty old, had five
of them but Yockelson had two nicer ones.
From one, I tossed out the banana, substituted dried apricots and then
goosed the coconut a bit. So here we have:
Scones
See Abbreviations, if needed
Yield: about 16 small pie-shaped scones or 8 big ones
2.5 C AP flour
2 3/4 t baking powder
1/4 t cream of tartar
1/2 t salt
1/3 C 10X sugar
6 T unsalted butter,
cold and small cubed
2
large eggs
6 T heavy cream
1 t vanilla extract
1 C finely diced dried apricots
3/4 C semisweet chocolate chips
3/4 C sweetened coconut flakes
1. Preheat oven to 400F
2. In a large SSB, whisk together flour, baking powder, cream
of tartar, salt and 10X
3. Add the cold cubed butter and cut it into the flour with a
rounded dough blade or fork to
reduce the cubes into large pea-sized bits
4. In a smaller SSB, whisk eggs, cream and vanilla together
5. Empty the wet SSB into the dry SSB, add the diced apricots,
chocolate chips and coconut
6. Fold and knead to form a dough (if too dry add a little more
cream)
7. Turn out on floured surface and knead briefly
8. Roll out dough into a 9-10 inch disk and cut eight wedges
with a chef's knife
9. Transfer scones to a sheet pan, lined with a silicone pad
or parchment paper
10. Refrigerate for about 15 minutes
11. Remove from the fridge and (optional) remove each wedge to
a cutting board and
cut each wedge in two to make
16 scones
12. Return scones to sheet pan and bake at 400F for about 16
minutes (or about 12 minutes
convection). Scones are done when
they start to brown and/or interior temp is +185F
Optional: Prior to baking, top each scone with a few chocolate
chips or sprinkles
Note: Next time I make these, I will add the zest from one lemon.
I think it would help.
No Surprise
Further down, at the bottom of this page, is a profile of The
Science of Good Food. As predicted, it has just won the 2009
IACP cookbook award for Food Reference and Technical. It's indeed a winner.
Couscous or Rice Salad
Couscous is a wonderful grain and change of pace from rice. It is
a staple in the Maghreb, the northwest area of Africa that includes Morocco,
Tunisia and Algeria. A “couscous mini-cuisine” has evolved there.
The base grain of couscous is durum wheat— a very hard wheat with high
protein. The durum endosperm is used to make couscous grain and is
also milled to make semolina flour. Like rice, couscous readily takes
on spices, seasonings and sauces. Most supermarkets carry a packaged couscous,
with small, almost fine, grains. It comes plain and seasoned--buy
plain. Here is a more authentic way to make
it than you'll find on box tops or in cookbooks. Steaming produces
a lighter fluffier couscous and is therefore worth the time.
We currently are repainting and reshelving the pantries in the kitchen,
so all the contents are spread out over the kitchen counter and the dining
and living room floors. In the process of getting everything out, we came
across an ancient bag of very short grain basmati
rice, from my teaching days eight years ago. So, to use it up,
I made this dish with the rice instead of couscous. I prefer using
couscous but the rice worked nicely too. This is great side dish and easy
to make. Here's how:
Couscous or Rice Salad
See Abbreviations, if needed
Yield: about 10 servings as a side
• 10 oz couscous
• 1 C plain yogurt
• 2 T red wine
vinegar
• 1 T Dijon mustard
• 3 T EVOO, your
best quality
• 2 C diced yellow
and red peppers
• 1 C diced scallions
or shallots
• 1/2 C diced calamata olives
• 1 C minced fresh
parsley or cilantro
• S/P to taste
1. Prep couscous or rice
and cool
2. Combine yogurt, red wine vinegar, and mustard in large stainless
steel bowl
3. Whisk in EVOO
4. Whisk in other ingredients and then add the grain
5. Toss to coat
6. Serve ambient
Potatoes Rissolee--Knife Work
If you
take some time with some nice fingerling potatoes you can carve up a French
classic sauteed/roasted potato dish called pommes de terre rissolees. The
dish calls for small potatoes carved into little six-sided footballs--all
pretty much the same size regardless of the potato you start out with.
It takes practice to carve these potatoes so that they look quite alike,
but you will get the hang of it soon enough. Use a sharp paring knife.
The so-called bird's beak peeler knife works best but is not required.
Carve each one and drop it in a bowl of water to prevent discoloration.
When ready, dry the potatoes and then sauté them in a very hot pan
with EVOO, salt and pepper. The potatoes must be well browned on
all sides, which means, even after some tossing, each potato has to be
turned with a tong. When browned, add some butter and maybe some herbs
to the pan and then place it in a 375F oven to roast the potatoes until
they are fork tender, maybe another ten minutes.
If you find these shaped potatoes on your plate in a restaurant, you
will know that the chef appreciates traditional fine cooking and will pay
to create it. When doing a stagiaire at The George Town Club one
afternoon, I prepared some pommes rissolee. The chef placed two potatoes
on each plate as an amuse-bouche to delight the eye.
Still in Print
We joined
a dinner party with old friends last night, where the host had earlier
been thinning out her basement book racks. She presented me with
this aged and musty 1978 first edition of the paperback version of this
1976 classic. It's still in print and for good reason. Just
short of a cooking course in one book, it covers over 150 basic techniques
with 1500 black and white photos that define the preparation of fish, veggies,
meat, desserts, carving and other knife work.
I first used this book at school. Paging through it now, I have
renewed admiration for La Academie de Cuisine in that there is little presented
by Jacques Pepin in La Technique that was not presented to us over
the one year course of instruction. In fact, I cannot find an unfamiliar
page! If you have grandchildren aspiring to things culinary, this classic
would be a fine addition to their growing library.
A Nice Chocolate Cookie
Awhile
back, our friends in Knoxville gave us a cocoa pot, complete with a fitted
battery powered mixer. The idea being to toss in the cocoa powder,
pour in the milk and then zap it with the mixer before and after heating
it all in the microwave. It works.
It was 8 above Saturday morning, so I poked about in the pantry for
some cocoa powder to make hot cocoa for breakfast as fortification
against the record low temperature. I found a box of Dutch cocoa,
by Droste, which proved to be high quality stuff. On the back of
the box was a recipe for Cracked Chocolate Cookies. Since TLW ordered
cookies for the inauguration, these looked promising. Though the
recipe called for vegetable oil, it otherwise made culinary sense. Dusted
with 10X sugar, the cookies appear cracked as they expand in the oven.
The Droste cocoa and brown sugar combine to produce a cookie with an intense
chocolate taste with low sugar notes.
So here it is, completely rewritten and with butter and some pecans:
Cracked Chocolate Cookies
See Abbreviations, if needed
Yield: about 30 cookies
1 1/2 C AP flour, sifted once
1/2 t salt
1/2 t baking
soda
6 T
(3/4 stick) butter, softened
1 1/4 C light brown sugar
1/2t
vanilla extract
2
eggs
1/3 C cocoa powder
1/2 C pecans, chopped
1 C
10X sugar for dusting
1. Preheat oven to 375F
2. Add salt and baking soda to the AP flour, sift
and set aside
3. Place butter in KA bowl and spin at high speed
to aerate
4. Slow paddle speed and add the brown sugar and
mix well
5. Add the vanilla extract, eggs and cocoa powder
and mix slowly
6. Add flour mixture slowly and mix until the dough
is all brown again
7. Add the pecans and mix briefly
8. Remove KA bowl from machine, remove and clean
paddle and then
place bowl in fridge while prepping
the next steps
9. Place 10X sugar in a shallow flat tray
10. Place baking mat(s) on cookie
sheet(s)
11. Remove cookie dough from the fridge
12. Scoop out a one-ounce portion of dough with a #60 scoop or
tablespoon,
shape into a ball and drop into
the 10X tray
13. Roll to cover balls with sugar and then place them on cookie
sheet
14. Bake about 9 minutes until cookies are lightly firm to the
touch (about 190F interior)
15. Remove cookies to a rack to cool.
Asian Cucumber Salad
The Little Woman loves cuc's, especially farm fresh American Picklers,
which are far superior to the tough skin American Slicers that come to
us waxed and shrink wrapped -- no thank you. (See Schneider's
"Veggies From A-Z" for the real scoop on cucumbers). This salad is a much
more clean crunching and lighter tasting cucumber dish than our cucumber
coulis. Especially if made with a high quality soy sauce,
such as the spoon-lickin-good Ohara Hisakichi
Shouten Soy Sauce, or something like it.
The cucumbers for this salad may be peeled or partially peeled to look
inviting, as shown above. Then sliced in half lengthwise, scooped
out and cut into slices 3/8" thick or less. (Use a mandoline if paper thin
slices are preferred).
Asian Cucumber Salad
Yield: 10 or more servings, as a side dish
See Abbreviations, if needed
3/4 C "seasoned" rice vinegar
(sugared)
1 C water
1 T sugar
1.5 T soy sauce, high quality
(use 1T if Kikkoman is all you have)
1 t
sesame oil (not more)
1/2 t fresh ground
pepper
4-5
cucumbers, of the short and thick variety
2 T
sesame seeds, black or white, toasted
1. Whisk together all the ingredients except the cucumbers and
sesame seeds
2. Peel or stripe the cucumbers
3. Slice cucumbers in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and
then cut into 3/8-inch slices
(use a mandoline to cut paper thin slices,
if preferred)
4. Toss the sesame seeds in a dry, very hot, pan until they smell
toasty - a minute of less (watch it!)
Immediately transfer them from the hot pan
to a cool container and set aside
5. Combine sliced cucumbers and the dressing
6. Cover and chill
7. Add the sesame seeds before serving
Another Food Science Book

I just got a copy of this big glossy, Canadian published paperback and
I am having a lot of fun paging through it. So, first off: it's an
attractive book with lots of whimsical color photos and reader friendly
formatting. At issue, however, is the publisher's claim that this
book is the "ultimate reference of how cooking works." That's a bit
much since the bibliography cites
McGee, Corriher,
Wolke and others who, up to now, own the subject. (Of note to readers:
Of the fifty or so books referenced by Joachim and Schloss in their bibliography,
I have ten of them and have previewed all but one on this Web site.)
Still, I guess, there's room for more. I'm not yet sure that this
book is a contribution to the literature...stay tuned.
Well, it is! This is a most reader-friendly food science book.
Three headings describe each of the 1600 entries: what it is, what it does
and how it works. "How it works" entries are science-based: chemical,
molecular, biological, etc.. Cross referencing is so omnipresent that it
invites the reader to flip back and forth through the book over and over
again. Tables abound, text size and shadings are used generously,
photos appear on about every three pages--with the result that the book
is a visual delight, front to back-- much more approachable that McGee
and more thorough than Corriher or Wolke. It's quite complete, too.
I looked for descriptions of a few arcane subjects--such as the Maillard
Effect--and found them. I noted too, with pleasure, that the authors
avoided dating the book with foodie political views, du jour.
It's a winner and bound to be recognized as such by the IACP and/or
the James Beard Foundation. If you are looking for a reference book
for an in-law or grand kid who shows promise in the kitchen, this tome
will prove to be a valued selection. You might like it too.
Or, lobby your librarian to get it.
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