Archive for the ‘Techniques’ Category

A Surprise James Beard Nominated Book

Thursday, April 15th, 2010

I was surprised to see this book on the JB Cookbook award nom’s for this year.  There are a lot of Weber-based grill books out there.  This one is by Jamie Purviance and is published by Sunset Books, both good names.  At first glance, it looks like a good basic grilling 101 book.  It has great photos and layout, as one would expect from Sunset editors.  It does not have much on the Weber Bullet but what is has is good.  It has so many rubs, marinades and sauce recipes that it might be worth the price just for those.

I read through this book and found it more substantive than at first appearance. Yes, it covers basic grilling for meats, fish and veggies.  But along the way, Purviance presents the reader with culinary how-to tutorials that border on the comprehensive.  This ain’t Jacques Pepin’s La Technique, but thorough enough that the editors made a index of techniques–there must be 400 of them, most with very useful photos!  Not just how to truss a boneless roast, but how to puree garlic and how to spatchcock a chicken.  Recipes too go beyond the basics–his bacon wrapped turkey breasts almost makes me want to buy the tasteless things and give them another go.  Sauces = 48; rubs = 20 and marinades = 27. Wow.

If your grill book is a third your age, toss it and start anew with this one, where you will learn a thing or two and have recipes that are politically correct with lower salt and fat content. This book is a must gift to your son in law who char  burns most everything and for the grandchild who aspires to conquer the great American cook-out.

Curry in a Hurrry

Thursday, April 8th, 2010

The U.S. Navy inherited a taste for curry—a hot, spicy, gravy-based dish of East Indian origin—from the Royal Navy.  It has been a favorite menu item in navy wardrooms for a century and at my table for decades.  Recipes abound, meatless versions as well.

Making the stuff from scratch was enough of a hassle that we didn’t have it at home all that often.  I then discovered a curry sauce mix that is very good and quick.  It is called S&B Golden Curry Sauce Mix.  It’s available in many supermarkets. (Safeway has it.)  It comes in three strengths—try medium-hot first.  Just add 2.5 cups of water, bring it to boil, and its ready.  (Note: the mix contains MSG and meat by-products.)  Good as it is, it can be improved.

Yield: 3-4 servings

1.  Start with a 10-inch sauté pan and brown in oil a sliced large onion, a diced green bell pepper, and a couple of carrots diced and blanched in boiling water for a few minutes before joining the onion and green pepper.  This takes time to ensure that everything is cooked through.
2.  Most often, at my home, the meat product (about 1.25 lbs) for this everyday dish is leftover lamb that is cubed or chicken that is pulled apart and tossed in with the veggies when they are done.  Shrimp can also be used.  If raw meat is used, cut it to bite sized cubes, stir fry it in a skillet to just barely done, drain and add it to the sauté pan with the veggies.  If using raw shrimp, add them directly to the veggies, since they cook so quickly.  If using pre-cooked shrimp, don’t add them until Step 5.
3.  In a large measuring cup, break up the sauce mix bar and add 2.5 cups of water.  Use only 2 cups of water if you prefer a drier curry.
4.  Dissolve the sauce mix in the water—heat in the microwave and stir.
5.  Add the sauce mix to the veggies and meat or shrimp, bring to boil, simmer for about 5 minutes or until the meat is tender or the shrimp are done.  Serve over rice, preferably basmati rice (prepare about ½ cup of rice per serving).
6.  Option:  You can increase the heat of this dish at the end of Step 1 by adding 2 teaspoons of curry powder or Patak’s Kashmiri Masala Paste.  Lamb takes the additional heat best.  Shrimp not at all.
7.  Desired Option:  Add to the warmth and bouquet of this dish wonderfully with garam masala—a northern India blend of dry-roasted spices available in many supermarkets.  Sprinkle a tablespoon of garam masala over the surface of the dish at the simmer stage in Step 5.  The addition of garam masala will remove all doubt in the household that it’s curry night.

Traditionally, this dish is accompanied by an array of garnishes selected to add contrasting textures, flavors and to reduce the heat. Each garnish is served in its own bowl.  Favorites include chutney, fresh lime wedges, toasted coconut, raisins and finely chopped unsalted peanuts, hard-boiled egg, and bacon.

If you want to step back into India a hundred years, prepare lamb curry for a dinner party.  Then gather up the grandchildren—one for each the seven garnishes—to parade and serve your seated guests.  You can then, as they did in the Raj, describe this entrée as a “Seven Boy Curry.”

Beer goes great with curry, especially when the curry is spicy hot.

The Hands Have It

Thursday, April 8th, 2010

The appearance of ingredients within a dish contributes greatly to its overall attractiveness.  Food and cookbook writers rightly champion the virtues of uniformly cut, diced or cubed meats and vegetables.  There are, however, ingredients and dishes where pulling products apart by hand gives a nicer appearance than diligent knife work.  It’s de rigueur for pull-pork and pull-beef barbecue preparations.  Less obvious, are chicken dishes, mushrooms and greens.

Many dishes call for the addition of precooked chicken or, as a result of their preparation, end up with well-cooked whole chicken legs, thighs and breasts.  Stew-like dishes, such as coq au vin, chicken curry and chicken pot pies are not only easier to eat when the cooked chicken pieces are de-boned and broken into bite-sized pieces, but the presentation appears more finished, refined and attractive.  When the dish is nearly completed, take the time to remove the chicken pieces and, when cool enough to handle, shred the meat by hand—pulling the dark meat off the bone and breaking apart the white breast meat.  Trash the bones, return the meat to the pot and finish the dish.  Chicken salad spread for sandwiches and wraps also is more attractive if the meat has been shredded by hand rather than sliced.

The mushroom is another case in point.  The cultivated white mushroom, most common in the supermarket, is appropriately wiped clean, sliced, sautéed in butter and then added to a dish.  Or they are just cleaned, dried, sliced and tossed into the pot or a salad.  However, the exotic mushrooms—the chanterelle, moral, oyster and even the portobello—should be treated with more respect.  Here’s why: (1) their tastes are unique, (2) their appearances are distinctive, (3) they cost a lot and (4) on the chance that your guests missed (1), they’ll miss (2) and (3) as well if you slice them up like so many white mushrooms.  So, for whatever dish is in preparation, clean and dry exotic mushrooms, prepare them whole or break them up by hand.  And, since their tastes are subtle, add them to the dish in its final preparation. (I caught hell at school for adding whole chanterelles to a braising pot of rabbit.  “Complete waste of money,” shouted the chef.  “Who’ll taste them?” he hollered.  “Next time, add them, sautéed, as a garnish when plating,” he commanded.  “Yes, chef,” I replied.)

Less obvious, is the approved appearance of greens torn by hand.  The tough stems of spinach and aragula should be removed by hand, so too the midrib of leaf lettuces, if tough.  Despite their high cost and “ready to serve” labeling of those pre- packaged salad mixes, spring medleys and mesclun, they too should be picked over.  I’ve prepped boxes of the stuff and, without fail, find tough stems and the occasional ‘strange’ piece of vegetation that should not make it to the table.

So, to recap:  A food editor from the Washington Post once asked Chef Francois Dionot, founder and president of L’Academie de Cuisine, to name the most important tool in the kitchen.  “Hands,” said he,  “hands are the chef’s most important tool.”

For related recipes:
See:  Korean Chicken
See:  Curry in a Hurry

A Better Way to Hard Boil Eggs

Monday, March 22nd, 2010

Welcome to the most popular page on this Web site (about 5000 hits each Easter week).

Here is a better way to hard boil eggs and to cool and peel them:
(Excerpted from Chicken, Egg and Tuna Salad Spreads)

To hard boil:
·   Place the eggs in a roomy saucepan and fill the pan with cold water to
completely cover the eggs
·   Bring to boil over high heat
·   Simmer for 30 seconds
·   Turn the heat off, cover, and let stand 12 minutes

To cool:
·   Leave the eggs in the pan and drain off the hot water
·   Place the pan, eggs and all, in the sink under running cold water until the water in
the pan is cold
·   Let the eggs cool in the cold water bath for 5 minutes

To peel:
·   Drain off the cold water, but leave the eggs in the pan
·   Shake the pan vigorously to crack the eggs
·   Peel eggs under running water


More about eggs:


Other how-to’s:

How to Spatchcock a Chicken

How to Puree Garlic with a Chef’s Knife

FireWire –Flexible Skewer

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

While shopping for a smoker, we came across some grilling skewers made of  3/32″ stainless steel preformed cable. They have a loop on one end and a fixed probe on the other.  With meat and veggies strung on the cable, the loaded cable can be dangled, loop-side-down, and formed to fit onto the grill any which way that works best, straight out, serpentine or circled–with the probe end extended over the edge of the grill grate, if you wish. Since stainless steel is non-reactive, raw product, skewer and all, can be marinated if you are using only one marinade for both veggies and meat (not to my liking). They are really long–30 inches! Sufficient to load enough food for two on each skewer.  Manufactured by Inno-Labs (firewiregrilling.com), the FireWire won a kitchen gadget award last year. Big Green Egg vendors have them and others too. Preformed cable is expensive–the skewers are $20 the pair. But neato!


How to Peel a Pineapple and Not Waste so Much of it

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010


Pineapples are usually peeled by slicing off the skin with a deep cut that removes the skin and all the eyes.  OK, its quick but a lot of pineapple is tossed out with the skin.  A better method is to slice off the skin with a shallow cut, leaving the most of the eyes.

Notice that the eyes have a pattern to them that can be lined up to cut out, 3 or 4 at a time, with a sharp paring knife making v-shaped cuts.

This method leaves a lot more pineapple on the pineapple.


Then quarter the fruit, trim off the hard part, dice and place in containers to cool.  A $4.75 pineapple yields two nice containers of chunks that go for $4.50 each at the market.

Waste not, want not . . .


How to Purée Garlic – Advanced Knife Work

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

According to Herbst, garlic is a member of the lily family, which includes leeks, shallots, onions, chives, and garlic chives (try them).  It is an edible bulb that grows under ground.  The bulb is made of sections called cloves.  Each clove is tightly wrapped in its own parchment-membrane, which resists removal.  Garlic is available year-round.  Look for firm plump bulbs with dry parchment membranes.  It keeps well (weeks) as a bulb and less well (week) as cloves before drying out.

Quite a few recipes (certainly a lot of mine) call for “puréed garlic.”  Surely you can’t put one garlic clove in a blender.  So, what is being called for here?  Garlic is usually chopped  finely to maximize the release of the fragrant oils.  Despite the small size of the garlic cloves, an 8 to 10-inch chef’s knife, with its wide blade, is best for the task (we’ll get to garlic presses is a moment).  Indeed, because the knife is big and the garlic is small, what we are about here definitely falls into the category of advanced knife work.

To prep:
1.  Break out a couple cloves from the bulb, by hand.
2.  Place the cloves on the cutting board and place the flat side of the chef’s knife on top of the cloves.

3.  Holding the knife handle with one hand, use the fist of the other to gently pound on the flat of the blade to crush the cloves.  The membrane can now be removed  more easily by hand.
4.  Trim off the ends of each clove and then slice them in half, lengthwise.
5.  Remove the strand of bright green garlic, now exposed—the germ—in the center of each clove, this green part is very strong and you do not want it.
To chop:
6.  Cut the garlic cloves finely using a rocking motion.

To purée:
7.  Gather the chopped garlic together near the edge of the cutting board (toward you).
8.  Dust the garlic with a pinch of salt, which will act as an abrasive agent against the garlic for the final step.

9. Turn the chef’s knife nearly flat but on a slight angle, edge down.  With the hand-on-handle extending close to you and knuckles clear of the cutting board, rock and drag the edge of the knife over the salted garlic along the cutting board mashing the chopped garlic into ever smaller pieces with repeated motions.  This takes some practice, but results in a beautifully smooth garlic mush.  Oh excuse me: garlic purée.

Every kitchen supply shop has a shelf full of garlic presses.  Chefs don’t use them.  But, since garlic presses work without having to peel the garlic cloves, a good garlic press can make quick work of Steps 1 through 6 (you will have to forego Step 5).  An Italian company, Pedrini, makes the best garlic press I’ve ever seen, way better than the Zyliss model that Cooks Illustrated favors.


Table of Measures

Monday, January 4th, 2010

Tables of measures abound.  This one includes more than a few metric cross-references.  While U.S. homemakers are not going metric, more and more imported kitchen equipment and food packages have metric markings, so it is of some utility to know, for example, that a container marked 500ml holds 1 pint or 2 cups.

TABLE OF MEASURES

½ teaspoon ……………….30 drops or 2ml
1 teaspoon…………………1/3 tablespoon or 60 drops or 5ml
3 teaspoons ……………….1 tablespoon or 15ml

1/2 tablespoon …………….1 1/2 teaspoons
1 tablespoon ………………3 teaspoons
2 tablespoons ……………  1/8C or 1 fluid oz
3 tablespoons ……………..1 ½ fluid oz
4 tablespoons ……………..1/4C or 2 fluid oz
5 1/3 tablespoons ….………1/3C or 5 tablespoons + 1 teaspoon
8 tablespoons ……………..1/2C or 4 fluid oz
10 2/3 tablespoons ………..2/3C or 10T + 2 teaspoons
12 tablespoons ……………3/4C or 6 fluid oz
16 tablespoons ……………1C or 8 fluid oz or

1/8C………………………..2 tablespoons or 1 fluid oz or 30 ml
1/4C……. …………………4 tablespoons or 2 fluid oz or 60ml
1/3C………………………..5 tablespoons +1 teaspoon or 75ml
3/8C………………………..1/4C + 2 tablespoons
1/2C……. ………………….8 tablespoons or 4 fluid oz or 125ml
2/3C……. ………………….10 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons or 150ml
5/8C…………………………1/2C + 2 tablespoons
3/4C…………………………12 tablespoons or 6 fluid oz or 175 ml
7/8C…………………….…..3/4C + 2 tablespoons
1C………………….……….16 tablespoons or ½ pint or 8 fluid oz or 250ml
2C…………………………..1 pint, or 16 fluid oz or 500ml
1 pint……………………….2C or 16 fluid oz or 500ml
1 quart ……………………. 2 pints or 4C or 32 oz or 1000ml or 1L
1 gallon…………………….4 quarts or 8 pints or 16C or 128 fluid oz or 4L

1 fluid oz…………………..29.57 milliliters
1C………………………….236.59 milliliters
1 quart……………………..946.36 milliliters

milliliters (ml) ÷ 29.57  = fluid ounces
grams (g)         ÷ 28.35  = ounces (weight)

Fahrenheit temperature  – 32 x 5  ÷ 9  = Celsius temperature
Celsius temperature       x 9  ÷ 5 + 32 = Fahrenheit temperature

Prep Dishes and Mise En Place

Monday, January 4th, 2010

According to Herbst, a ramekin is an individual baking dish (3 to 4 inches in diameter) that resembles a miniature soufflé dish (see photo).  Usually made of porcelain or earthenware, they are used to hold all manner of things from ice cream to soufflés to ingredients for a dish in preparation.  It is this latter function that is of interest here.

Cooks have used preparation dishes or “prep dishes” for years to hold and organize ingredients.  Line cooks in restaurants start each day preparing meat, fish, veggies and whatever they need in a hurry to prepare their assigned items for plating or to be sent to the chef for plating, where he/she has more prep dishes filled with garnishes, for example.  In small kitchens, ramekins work well for this task.  Their big fault is that they don’t stack.

Readers are more familiar with TV chefs who have rows of clear glass prep dishes of measured ingredients, all lined up in the order of anticipated use.  You can be sure that the celebrity chef has an assistant (never seen) who has done all the work.  “Yes chef, the mise is out there.” “Mise” is short for mise en place , a French term referring to having the equipment at hand and all the ingredients for a dish prepared and ready to combine, up to the point of cooking.  Mise en place is a fundamental tenet of good cooking, world around.

The whole idea in the restaurant kitchen, the TV studio kitchen and our commercial kitchen/classroom at the McLean Community Center is to have studied the recipes, know what is needed, have the drudge work done ahead and, at the point of cooking, have all in readiness for an orderly preparation of the dish without delays caused by missing or unready equipment or ingredients.

So too elsewhere in life:  the cook’s mise en place is quite like the military planner’s Rule of Six P’s, that is: “Prior planning prevents p-poor performance.”

So too at home.  In the photo, is a stack of stainless steel prep dishes—twelve of them.  I use them all the time, even when cooking for the two of us.  For parties, the crudités alone can use up five dishes, each filled with a prepared item, then saran wrapped and placed in the fridge.  Nearly all the recipes on the Food page come together more nicely and quickly if you use prep dishes and are devoted to the concept attending them.

Porcelain ramekins are widely available.  Look for light weight, thin stainless steel prep dishes in an Asian or Indian food and appliance store.  I checked last week and they were going for $3.00 each.  A clear glass and stackable prep dish is available at Sur La Table for about the same price.

(Go here for another dimension of mise en place.)


Knives, Knife Work and Sharpening

Monday, January 4th, 2010

Julia Child said a home cook can get along nicely with two knives, an 8- or 10-inch chef’s knife and a good paring knife.  Mmmm…all right.  Certainly so, if you are helping to outfit the kitchen of one of your kids or grandchildren.  Additional knives might include, in order of priority, a serrated bread knife, a boning knife and perhaps a long slicing knife.  But, the new home cook is better served getting two knives of high quality than a bargain set of all the above.

Knife blades are either forged or stamped.  Forged knives are better but cost more.  Top of the line forged knives include Wüsthof Trident and J.A. Henckels from Europe, Lamson Sharp made in the USA, and Global from Japan. There are many stamped knife manufacturers.  Forschner/Victorinox makes the best of them in Switzerland.  An 8-inch chef’s knife from Wüsthof will cost about $90.00.  Henckels, Lamson Sharp and Global chef’s knives are a little less.  The Forschner/Victorinox chef’s knife costs about $30.00.

If the weight, size or mass of the traditional chef’s knife is too much for you, the Japanese version of the chef’s knife, called a santoku, is worth a test drive.   I bought one in Japan some 20 years ago but didn’t use it much (frankly, I didn’t know what I had).  However, after wielding a 10-inch Wüsthof at school for a year, I rediscovered the santoku at home and have come to favor its lightness, balance and razor edge.  Today, most of the forged knife manufacturers offer a santoku knife (shown below).

Which brings us to the subject of sharp knives.  “Sharper is safer” may strike the home cook as counterintuitive, but it’s a truism of the trade.  Here is a supporting operational sequence (with apologies to lefties):

·   Put the product to be cut on the table.
·   Position the body over the table and eyes over the product.
·   Hold the product with the left hand.
·   Then, place the left hand fingers together,
o   nails down
o   and thumb tucked behind the index finger.
·  With the right hand and arm, move the knife forward in a cutting (non-chopping) motion.

Thus postured, arrayed and applied, a sharp knife will cut clean, straight and safe.  A dull knife is prone to slip and move the product, as more pressure and effort must be applied to complete the task.

OK, so sharp is better.  The good news is that good quality knives keep their edge and seldom need to be sharpened, even when used a lot.  What they do need is a frequent realignment of the edge, which is accomplished by passing the knife along a honing steel (sometimes called a butcher’s steel) in two or three practiced swipes. The “steel” is made of super hard steel with a micro-rough surface that realigns the molecular edge of a sharp knife without wearing away the knife’s metal.  Use it often.  (At work, we would clean, trim and cut a dozen beef tenderloins at a time with 6-inch flexible boning knives that we “re-steeled” about every other tenderloin.)

However, a honing steel will do nothing for a dull knife.  So, you have to sharpen it once in awhile.  Electric sharpeners and other mounted gadgets are available.  I haven’t tried them.  In my chef’s tool box, I have a hand-held two-sided diamond “stone,” about 5 x 1 x ¼ -inch, with a same-size folding handle.  Diamond Machining Technology (DMT) makes these in various shapes, sizes and coarseness. There is even a tapered round-shaped one (see photo for the all-red sharpener) for serrated knives, which are a hassle to keep sharp since they should not be steeled.  Most cutlery stores carry them.  They are pricey (about $25), but one fine/very fine course stone (colored-coded red/green) is all one really needs.  Nice gift too, come to think of it.


Folding Santoku Chefs Knife

It seems that every time we’re on the road, I have need of a cooking knife.  Friend’s kitchens all have them, our favorite summer place in Duck, NC has one in each mini-kitchen, even hotel room wet bars often have a knife.  All have one thing in common:  they’re dull.  Still, I always fail to pack a knife from my kitchen.  I’d have to wrap it up, put it in a suitcase, check it as baggage and hope that the TSA won’t pull the bag off the belt when it sees a nine inch knife in it.

A.G. Russell, a respected knife manufacturer and retailer, offers a Japanese made folding chefs knife of high quality designed for travel.  The blade is 4-1/4″ long and 1-5/8″ wide, santoku-shaped, with a  fine edge. When closed, the knife measures 5-1/8″, which makes it easy to pack and less threatening.  When opened, the blade locks securely.

Full sized chefs knives have wide blades that allow room for the fingers to rest under the handle without bumping against the cutting board. This area of clearance, from the handle to the blade edge, is referred to as the ricasso. A full sized chefs knife has a ricasso of 7/8″ or greater.  However, since this knife blade must fold into the handle, the designers limited the ricasso to 3/8″, otherwise the handle would be too wide and unwieldy.  It’s a compromise I’ve learned to live with by not choking up on the handle but rather sliding the index finger back to the first handle-indent.  In this position one can rock the blade and slice with some clearance.

This is a very nice special purpose knife.  I can cook with it.  It will make every trip from now on.  It’s available for about $70, post paid, at www.agrussell.com.