Archive for the ‘(1)Home’ Category

New Smoker

Monday, April 12th, 2010

TLW got me a birthday present that has been on the wish list for years.  A smoker.  I chose Weber’s Smokey Mountain Cooker (aka The Weber Bullet) because it’s only a smoker (I don’t need two grills), it’s a Weber product, it’s fairly compact and it’s tried and true with a big following of Internet devotees.

Finally found the time to try out the The Weber smoker. I got a pork blade shoulder from Safeway, marinated it with some hot Carolina  vinegar in a vacuum bag for a day and started up the bullet for a ten hour smoke.  Lighting the charcoal and placing in some hickory wood and adjusting the resultant heat to 225F and keeping it was there was straightforward. We brushed the roast with barbecue sauce at the start and again mid-way through.

So here we have:

A 7 pound  pork butt yielded only 2.25 pounds of shredded pork ready for tacos or pulled pork sandwiches.  But I have a problem with this meat.  It’s fat.  I didn’t pull the roast apart until the following morning when the meat was cold, so the fat was more clearly apparent than if the roast was pulled hot and served a la minute.

I am beginning to gain insight as to why every smoker chef to publish a cookbook and put his picture on it appears, shall we say, well rounded.  First, one needs fortification during the arduous ten hour smoking process–perhaps a beer an hour.  Second, the product has a high fat content.

Honestly, We’re not sure we’re going to eat this stuff . . .

FireWire –Flexible Skewer

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

While shopping for a smoker, we came across some grilling skewers made of  3/32″ stainless steel preformed cable. They have a loop on one end and a fixed probe on the other.  With meat and veggies strung on the cable, the loaded cable can be dangled, loop-side-down, and formed to fit onto the grill any which way that works best, straight out, serpentine or circled–with the probe end extended over the edge of the grill grate, if you wish. Since stainless steel is non-reactive, raw product, skewer and all, can be marinated if you are using only one marinade for both veggies and meat (not to my liking). They are really long–30 inches! Sufficient to load enough food for two on each skewer.  Manufactured by Inno-Labs (firewiregrilling.com), the FireWire won a kitchen gadget award last year. Big Green Egg vendors have them and others too. Preformed cable is expensive–the skewers are $20 the pair. But neato!


Recipes

Saturday, March 20th, 2010

I’ve cleaned up and better organized the Food Page Recipes.  There are over a hundred now and it was getting cumbersome.  Have a look.

En Route to the Library Computer for Another Session on GG.com, No Doubt

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

EGGPLANT STACK

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Eggplants look glorious this time of year. Stack ‘em high! This is a nice vegetarian dish or a great side with a small meat portion.  BTW, I’ve given up on “salting to sweat” eggplant.  The science is shakey and it adds too much salt: just oil them up and go.

Eggplant Stack
Yield:  about 2 servings per eggplant
See Abbreviations, if needed
2          large deep purple eggplants
1          large Vidalia or white sweet onion
1-2      bell peppers
3T       Italian, Mexican or French seasoning, of choice
1/4C    EVOO
S/P      to taste, but don’t over salt the eggplant
2C       tomato sauce, of choice
3/4C    freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano
1.    Preheat oven to 400F
2.    Slice the eggplant into rounds 1/2 inch thick (3 per serving); leave the skin on for now
3.    Slice peeled onions into thin rounds and set aside
4.    Slice the bell pepper into rings ¼ inch thick, clean out the center of the rings
5.    Place the eggplant rounds on a greased sheet pan (or Pam sprayed)
6.    Dust generously with seasoning and drizzle generously with EVOO
8.    Place a bell pepper ring of each eggplant
9.    Place an onion round on top of each pepper ring pepper ring
9.    Bake at 400F for about 22 minutes
10.  Prepare the tomato sauce
11.  Remove sheet pan from oven and let cool, leave the oven on
12.  To assemble and serve:
• Remove the pepper and onion from each eggplant round and set aside
• Remove eggplant skins (optional—use a scissors)
• Drizzle tomato sauce over each eggplant round
• Dust generously with the grated cheese.  Replace the pepper and onion and add
a little more sauce and cheese
• Repeat with two more eggplant/pepper/onion combinations–creating a stack three high

• Add remaining sauce and top with remaining cheese
• Return sheet pan to oven to reheat the stacks and melt the cheese, about 8 minutes
• Serve immediately on heated plates as a vegetarian entree or with meat or poultry

Summer Picnics, Cook Outs and “The Danger Zone”

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Time for the annual Food safety lecture:

What should be said about food safety to this audience of seasoned home cooks?  Got to say something since you will never get over making your guests sick–and it can happen and it can be avoided.

The first two of three bottom lines are that bacteria need temperature and time to grow and give off toxins.  So, keep these numbers in mind:

· The “danger zone” wherein bacteria grow rapidly is 40ºF to 140ºF.
· In four hours of accumulated time, in the danger zone, rapid growth of bacteria may occur.

Apply these data to a potato salad scenario for a charity affair and we have the following:

Event Time the mayo is in the Danger Zone
Mayo is taken out of the fridge, mixed with Dijon mustard, diced olives, pickles, onions, lardons of bacon and whatever and set aside. 20 minutes
Potatoes are then peeled, cubed, boiled and set aside to cool. 20 minutes
The eggs are hard boiled and set aside to cool and be sliced. 20 minutes
The potatoes and eggs are added to the mayo.
The salad—all ingredients are now at ambient temperature, say 70ºF—is placed in the fridge to await the trip to the charity event. It never cools to 40ºF. 60 minutes
The salad is loaded into the car and makes the trip to the charity event where it is placed on the serving table just in time for the buffet—a two-hour affair. 60 minutes
There is a good crowd, but plenty of potato salad for the late arrivals. 120 minutes

Add up the time in the danger zone and we get 5 hours.  The late diners are at risk from the potato salad!

The third bottom line is “cross contamination”—that is, the transfer of harmful microorganisms from one item of food to another by means of surface contact (knives, boards and hands) or storage and thawing in contact with other food items.  The villain here is the live pathogenic salmonella, which is the source of most frequently reported foodborne infections. The heroes are space, soap, water and cooking temperatures.  Prepare and store raw meat separate from other products, wash knives, steels, boards and hands with soap and hot water upon completion and cook meat products to temperatures recommended by the USDA—poultry and sausages for sure (165ºF).

Cold Soups are in for Summer

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Vichyssoise

We’re in the season for cold soups.  Vichyssoise is very popular.  It is a cold, pureed and strained version of potato and leek soup, with special handling.  Note the following:

·   Cold soups should have a thinner consistency than hot soups.
·   Cold soups require more seasoning than hot soups because cold dulls the sense
of taste.  It follows, that seasoning should be adjusted only after the soup has
been chilled.
·   Add the half and half at the last minute.
·   If some of the soup is to be set-aside for tomorrow or to be frozen, do not add half
and half to that portion.
·   Always serve cold soups very cold.

VICHYSSOISE (revised)
A cold leek and potato soup
Yield: 1 quart, about 6 servings
See Abbreviations, if needed
•   1         onion, diced
•   5          leeks, white to very light green part only, sliced
•   2 T       butter
•   1          garlic clove, pureed
•   1          sachet of Herbes de Provence or of bay and thyme leaves, pepper
corns and parsley stems
•   1 qt      chicken stock or canned broth (watch the salt)
•   5          large red or white potatoes, peeled and diced
•   1/2 C   half and half
•   4 oz     creme fraiche
•   2 T      fresh chopped parsley
•              salt and white pepper (this soup needs quite a lot of salt)

1.  Sweat diced onion and leeks in butter to well done, but not browned (about 10 minutes)
2.  Add garlic, sachet of herbs and chicken stock.  BTB and then simmer
3.  Add potatoes and simmer until the potatoes are done
4.  Strain the hot soup through a food mill, not a food processor.  Then, if it is still way too thick
and not smooth, puree it with your stick blender or food processor. See note
5.  Chill the soup
6.  At the last minute, add half and half to thin the soup to desired consistency
7.  Adjust seasoning
8.  Serve cold, garnished with a piped dollop of creme fraiche and a spring of parsley
Note:  Step 4: A food processor will chop up all the tough fibrous leeks while a food mill will strain most
of them out leaving a more refined soup.

Beyond Barbecue?

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Just got this book on wood fire cookery and it looks rather far out, but with recipes that are unique and interesting, such as Beef and Potato Pie, Pork Tenderloin w/ Burnt Brown Sugar, Orange Confit & Thyme, Patagonian Potato Gelette and Smashed Potatoes w/ Tapenade Crust.  The author is a famous Argentine chef/owner, restaurateur and TV showman.

After reading through the book and walking my mind through quite a number of the recipes, I announced to TLW that “this is a guy’s book.” “Oh, I don’t know about that,” she said, “I’m going to make the empanadas and the beef and potato pie, for sure. And, if it’s a guy’s book, why did our house guest copy two recipes out of it?” OK, it’s a recipe book, written by a chef who, upon hearing the siren of a fire engine, is likely to chase it–not to help put out the fire but to cook on it. That’s a guy thing!

Mallman cooks on seven fires (hence the title) all big, all wood and all outdoors. The fires are grate, griddle, opposing griddles, oven, ember mounded, fire pit with rack and Dutch oven cauldron. He describes each with its Argentine setting and then goes about pairing recipes to the fires. So, for starters, if you have an outdoor fire pit or the like, this is a must read.  If you don’t, but are going to cook his meat recipes indoors, you will need a very good vented range and oven. That said, many if not most of the recipes are indoor friendly and do not require high heat and venting.

Mallman is French trained and cooked for years in the urban setting as chef/owner before giving himself over to country culinary pyromancy.   At the outset, Mallman puts forth his “one unbreakable rule” when cooking with high heat:  “You must wait; Leave it alone; Don’t touch it; Don’t move it; and above all, Don’t flip it.” Blessings upon Francis Mallman for getting this straight, putting it up front and restating it in recipes thoughout the book. I won’t harp on this subject further than to suggest you buy this book for your best grilling friend who plays with burgers.   He also offers good advice on how hot fires should be and how to judge their temperature.

This is one of the best recipe books I’ve read in some time.  Notwithstanding that I write more recipes than I read, I can’t wait to get into it.  21 appetizers, 13 beef and veal, 13 lamb, pork and poultry, 9 fish, 11 veggies, 18 light fare, 8 desserts, 8 breads and 20+ sauces and such.  The recipes include a lot of high carbon burnt veggies and crisps meats.  There are three or four whole carcass recipes that can be fired and plated in a mere day or so of attentive fire tending.

Seven Fires, Grilling the Argentine Way is worth your consideration as a grilling and regional cuisine book with inventive and approachable recipes. It is a substantive contribution to the liturature and surely will be an IACP and James Beard Book Award contender.

Don’t Know Who Sent This Hat, But Thanks. I’ ll Cook Better Now . . .

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Well, The New “Sleigh Bowls” Worked Great For This Wok Dish, But . . .

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

All the veggies seemed to have gotten lost in the high heat. Maybe they were overcooked but everything was done in series  (more French then Chinese).  The shrimp and the rib eye strips were fine…the dinner guests loved it all…but I got to work on high heat wok cooking.