Archive for December, 2009

Breading Station

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

Coconut Shrimp (revised)
Shrimp, coated with coconut and then deep fried is a popular dish in Zihuatanejo.  Here is my take on it: (Sorry I didn’t have the camera out, but will surely do it again).

NOTE:  We’re going to use what’s called a breading station.  The trick is to move the shrimp from one pan to the next while keeping one hand dry and the other wet, otherwise the whole process turns into a wretched mess.

Yield:  2-3 servings
See Abbreviations, if needed
·  3/4C      unbleached all purpose flour
·  1t           hot paprika
·  1/2t        salt
·  1/2t        freshly ground pepper
·  1/2t        sugar
·   2           eggs
·  1.5C      unsweetened shredded coconut
·  3/4C      Panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
·  1 lb       large raw shrimp, peeled and deveined (about 6 [10-15 count] shrimp per person)
·  1.5 C     grapeseed, vegetable or peanut oil if using a wok, (about 3 cups if using a Dutch oven)

1. Set up a “breading station” to coat the shrimp:
(using three dishes and two hands–one “dry hand” and the other “wet hand”
·  Combine flour, paprika, S/P and sugar and place in a shallow dish, far left
·  Beat the eggs lightly with a little water and place in the second shallow dish, center
·  Combine the coconut and panko and place in the third shallow dish, far right
2.  With the left hand, drop a few shrimp into the flour mixture, coat thoroughly and
then transfer the shrimp to the egg mixture
3.  With the right hand, swish the shrimp to thoroughly coat them with egg
4.  With the right hand, transfer the egged shrimp into the coconut/panko mixture and coat thoroughly
5.  Again with the right hand place the coated shrimp on a rack to await frying
6.  Repeat with all the remaining shrimp
7.  Heat the cooking oil in a wok or Dutch oven to 375F. Use a thermometer!
8.  Carefully place a few shrimp in the oil and immediately increase heat to get the oil back
up to 350F to 375F
9.  Swish the shrimp in the hot oil until golden, about 2 minutes
10.  With a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer the deep fried shrimp to a rack and place in
warming drawer or oven
11.  When all the shrimp are prepared, serve immediately
12.  Coconut shrimp can be accompanied with red onions, orange and lime slices
and/or chutney

Abbreviations

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

I know.  Abbreviations and acronyms are a bane of the erudite, but expedience rules. At L’Academie de Cuisine, students in the professional course are told at the outset that, “chefs do not read recipes, they write them.”  So for six months, five days a week, I had to type up the day’s work — notes plus 3 to 5 recipes. The abbreviations list has since evolved into a style sheet for the 560 plus recipes in my Chef’s Compendium, a work in progress.

ABBREVIATIONS

a la minute…on order, at time of serving, at the last minute
AP…………….all-purpose (flour)
BG…………….bouquet garni  (a sachet of pepper corn, bay leaf, parsley stem and thyme)
BTB.. ………..bring to boil
C ……………..cup
DG …………..demi-glace
EVOO……….extra-virgin olive oil
F ………………degrees Fahrenheit
FP……………. food processor
IACP…………International Association of Culinary Professionals
ID……………..inside diameter
KA……………Kitchen Aid (electric mixer)
KAB………….Kitchen Aid bowl
OD……………outside diameter
OO……………on order
PP……………..parchment paper
RW……………red wine
RWV…………red wine vinegar
SB…………….stick blender
seriatim……..in series or one at a time
SOS…………..serve(d) on the side
S/P……………salt and pepper
SP…………….sheet pan (“half sheet pan” 18 x 13 x 1-inch)
SSB………….stainless steel bowl
t ……………….teaspoon
T……………….tablespoon
TLW………….the little woman
TT …………….to taste
WW …………white wine
WWV ………white wine vinegar

Turning Vegetable Slicer

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

The turning vegetable slicer can be described as a “rotating mandoline.”  It is a tool that looks like a lathe.  On the fixed end is a short holding shaft and one fixed knife blade and one toothed blade.  On the moveable end, which rides on a track, is a crank that turns another short holding shaft.  Aligning a veggie between the holding shafts and turning the crank results in a spiral cut of the veggie—curly strands of cucumber, potato, sweet potato, daikon, radish, carrot, jícama, cabbage, onion and the like—as the veggie is cranked and pushed through the blades. The result is a double cut veggie, sliced and shredded.

The Japanese came up with this machine to produce spaghetti-like strands of veggies for use as decorative garnish, delicate steamed veggies and fine textured raw vegetable side dishes. Here at home, the machine is used for all of the above, for carrots to add to coleslaw, and to make “potato mats.”

Here’s how to make potato mats:
·   Peel a potato and hold in cold water to prevent discoloration
·   Dry off the potato and crank it through the slicer using the medium tooth blade
·   Place the potato strands on paper toweling and dry again
·   Shape and press the strands into a mat and sauté in butter or EVOO until nicely brown
·   Place the sauté pan in the oven and bake the potato mat until done

Serve the mats as a nicely textured breakfast side of potatoes or put eggs on top.  For lunch, if made small and thin, the mats can be “stacked” with layers of seasoned and dressed roasted or grilled veggies.  Like—mat/roasted red peppers/mat/grilled mushrooms/mat/zucchini/mat/egg plant—you get the idea.  Of course, the whole stack collapses when attacked with a fork.  Great fun for lunch or as an appetizer if made smaller.

There are two vegetable slicer machines available.  The “green machine” (shown above) imported from Japan by Benriner Co Ltd, and the “Le Rouet” from Bron-Couke.  The Benriner (photo above) and the Le Rouet are available in some specialty kitchenware shops.  The Benriner sells for $60 to $100, depending on where you find it.  The Le Rouet goes for an astronomical $190.  I bought the Benriner while at cooking school and use it now and then on potatoes when we make breakfast for overnight guests. I have also made the “vegetable stack,” a school recipe, as a special lunch dish.

Frankly, this is a specialist’s tool.  Nice to have when you want to show off or are in the mood to “go fancy.”

iSi Thermo Whip

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

When I saw an advertisement for a cream whipper, by iSi, that had an insulated bottle for hot savory products, I had to have it.  The idea here is that this thing not only makes  light and fluffy whipped cream in seconds but hot mousses as well, and keeps a mixture cold in the bottle for eight hours or hot for three hours.  It’s called an iSi Thermo Whip and is available at Williams Sonoma (who, by the way, are finally offering a discount to culinary professionals).

Right out of the box, we followed an iSi recipe and whipped up a Teramisu Cream that was light and foamy.  The following day we made a Lemon Yogurt Cream comprising equal parts of heavy cream and yogurt plus four tablespoons of Lemoncello Liqueur and two packets of Splenda.  This was delicious on leftover ladyfingers, but it did not come out of the whipper stiff and firm.

Now it was time to make something savory–since I had assured The Little Woman that it was the “only reason I bought the thing.”  We decided to do a modified puree of Sweet Potato with Smoked Paprika that was light and airy –an espuma or foam, if you will.  I  made the first batch too stiff with the result that the N2O gas couldn’t aerate it.  The result:  sweet potato sludge.  The second batch was made with equal parts pureed sweet potato and half and half cream.  The result:  sweet potato slurpy.  So, I’ve bought some heavy cream and will use that to see if I can get something to squirt out smooth, stiff and airy.  At this juncture, however, The Little Woman appears poised to declare this purchase yet another of “Chic’s follies.”  Stay tuned, recipes are bound to follow . . .

Stove-Top Smoker

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

There is an outfit in Colorado Springs that makes a smoker that is compact and convenient.  (In contrast to the huge backyard smokers that take on life’s work proportions.)  It’s about the size of a large, deep cake pan (photo). They now made a smaller size, as well.

It has four stainless steel parts:  the pan where proprietary “wood chips” (in the white plastic container) are placed by the tablespoon; a drip tray that rests over the wood chips; a rack that holds the product to be smoked; and a cover that slides tightly over the pan to seal in the smoke.   The smoker comes with a sampling of wood chips and the company, Camerons, makes nine varieties—from Alder (for salmon) to Oak (for sausage).  Very little smoke escapes the pan when fired on top of the stove due to the special cut of the wood chips, which are so fine that they should be called wood dust.

Most fish, meat,chicken and veggies are smoked in 10 minutes-a-pound.  I bought one a couple of years ago so that I could smoke tomatoes for a favorite soup.  It works great and comes with a 24-page manual with good instructions and lots of good recipes.  Sur La Table and La Cuisine carry it.
They have a web site at “cameronsmoker.com.”

For the soup, go to Smoked Tomato Soup.
Also try the Smoked Salmon.


A Very Functional Roasting Rack Comes In Two Sizes

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009


The Cuisipro people have come out with a roasting rack that does tricks.  It is hinged with a removable pin.  Empty, it is high in the center so, when loaded with a bird or large roast, the arms close in to hold it.  But if, for example, you wish to wrap the outside of a turkey with cheese cloth and then brush on melted butter, the arms can be held open so you can work around the bird.  It has handles to facilitate lifting.  Once lifted out of the roasting pan and placed on a serving plate, the hinge pin can be removed and the arms will fall away. Neato!  But wait, there’s more:  When finished with the rack, the arms can be folded together and the hinge pin reinstalled to store the rack in half of the space it takes when the arms are open and opposed.  It fits a 16″X13″ roasting pan.  The Little Woman placed a 22 pound turkey in the rack and it looked like it could hold a 24-26 pound bird. It is not surprising that the rack was the winner of a 2006 Houseware’s Design Award.  About $20 at most kitchen shops.

Replacement Skillets

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009


Over the years, I have acquired seven skillets (round shaped, rounded sides and shallow) and three sauté pans (round shaped, near-vertical sides, deeper and with covers).  Skillets include one porcelain-covered iron, one non-stick heavyweight aluminum, two black iron, and three medium-weight non-stick aluminum pans.  The sauté pans include one heavyweight tin-lined copper and two non-stick heavyweight aluminum.  I use them all.

The oldest of these pans are the iron skillets and the copper sauté pan.  The most newly acquired are the medium-weight non-stick aluminum skillets.  This type skillet is in every commercial kitchen, but they are not well known to home cooks, though some of the popular kitchen equipment stores are now carrying them.

If you wish to replace a skillet, get another one or buy one for the kids, I suggest passing by the big-buck heavily advertised skillets and buying a restaurant-type non-stick medium-weight aluminum skillet.  They offer the best value and versatility for the dollar ($35 to $75).

There are a number of manufacturers making these skillets.  I have looked at quite a few but have tried only one.  I have 8, 10 and 12-inch skillets made by Lincoln Ware-ever with DuPont’s CeramiGuard II non-stick surface (shown below).  They are well balanced, have neat silicone grips and a bombproof non-stick surface—far superior to the surfaces on the big-buck pans I have.  Go “Lincoln Ware-ever” on Google to find their pans.

While we’re on this subject:  If you have a heavyweight aluminum skillet or sauté pan that has not been abused but has lost its non-stick ability, or has become warped, and you paid top-dollar for it ($60 to $200), take it back to an authorized dealer.  I’ve done this twice and have come home with a new pan—few questions asked.

Peppermill

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

A peppermill, or pepper grinder, is a must-have tool in the kitchen.  Freshly ground pepper is to ground and bottled pepper as fresh pressed garlic is to dried and ground garlic, that is, flat and wholly lacking in intensity.  Fortunately, grinding fresh pepper is a lot easier than peeling, cutting and pressing whole garlic.  All you need to do is to add a peppermill to your kitchen counter top and keep it filled with whole pepper corns.

I’ve gone through maybe four peppermills over the years.  They either wear out or get too grungy.  Peugeot, in France, has always made the best selling milling mechanisms and many manufacturers use them.  They work fine but are not precisely adjustable.  The one I just tossed out had a Peugeot mill that wore out only because the no-name manufacturer misaligned it, with the result that it ground itself up.

Now there is a better peppermill out there or, at least, a new peppermill of choice.  Cooks Illustrated did a review of kitchen peppermills awhile back and found the Unicorn’s Magnum Plus was the clear winner with a superior range of grinds, large capacity and “blinding speed.”

So, I got one last week.

It is a very good peppermill, the best I’ve ever used.  It holds a half cup of pepper corns and, when loaded, has good heft and balance.  The grind is easily adjustable from medium-fine to course, by means of a thumb screw on the bottom. They are made in Nantucket by Tom Davis, Inc. As the photo shows, they come in a range of models from the large Magnum Plus, to medium sized ones that take a quick-draw holster for restaurant waitstaff, to a pocket sized mill for pepper addicts.  All of them use Italian milling mechanisms.  The big one goes for $45.00 with the lowest shipping and handling fee ($4.00) I’ve seen in years.  They sell direct at www.peppergun.com.

UPDATE:
Over the years, an annoying design problem with the housing has surfaced.  Namely,  the door collar that opens and closes the peppercorn refill and storage tank, opens clockwise.  So, while turning the top clockwise to grind pepper, the door collar beneath it works itself open with the annoying result that pepper corns spill out into your sauce, stew or the floor. Why the Unicorn  people can’t redesign the collar to open counterclockwise remains a mystery.  There is a plastic détente that adds friction to the collar, but it wears smooth over a short period of use.

Last week, while The Little Woman was grinding a generous portion of Ecuadorian pepper into her cubed pork verde stew, the peppermill door opened and out came a bunch of peppercorns that got lost in the stew.  Maybe you can bite into a tellicherry peppercorn now and then but the ones from Ecuador, which I buy from the Spice House people and keep in the small mill, are very authoritative.  Like:  Wow! TLW was not amused:  “How long do we have to put up with this?”  “Do something.”
“OK.”  Please note in the photo the tiny stainless screw that I installed in each peppermill to keep the darn door closed.  Works fine.  Once tapped, the screw backs out easily with a proper sized screwdriver.
Problem solved.


Pan Liners and Baking Mats

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

Liners for baking pans have been around for a long time.  Is there a kitchen in the country that doesn’t have a box of Cut-Rite Wax Paper?  The stuff has been on the market for 75 years. It works as long as it is not exposed directly to heat. Aluminum foil came on the market in 1947.  Still widely used as a cover, it has also morphed into throwaway pans and containers used by home cooks and caterers.  There are some new products used in commercial kitchens and pastry labs, that have found their way into home kitchens as replacements for wax paper and aluminum foil and as advancements in food preparation.

The first of these is parchment paper, a non-stick, heavy tissue-like paper that is coated—usually with silicone—to withstand direct heat (goodbye wax paper).  This stuff comes in rolls and in sheets precut to fit standard commercial sheet pans and half-sheet pans.  It is used for pastry, to roll dough on, to line pie pans, cake pans and sticky bun pans where it greatly facilitates removal of product and pan clean up.  In the savory kitchen, parchment paper is used to prevent the build-up of grease and charred encrustations on sheet pans when used to roast veggies, bake cakes, focaccia and the like. Chef Laura Bell insisted that we line sheet pans with parchment paper whenever possible to simplify cleanup.  Parchment paper is also used to reduce the work area of braising liquids.  While glazing carrots, for example, simply cut a circle of parchment paper to fit the inside of the pot.  Butter, stock and carrots are then brought to simmer and the parchment paper is pushed down directly on top of the carrots.  In effect, making a small covered pot out of a big covered pot.  It is also essential for en papillote recipes, where veggies and/or fish are baked in paper. For all, parchment paper is useful and cheap.  A roll costs about $2.75.  I can’t do without it. It’s available in all kitchen supply stores.

Baking mats are of two types.  Silicone coated and Teflon coated. By far the most widely used are the silicone coated mats, which come in many sizes and are priced from between $25 and $40 depending on size.  Nothing sticks to these mats.  They are made of woven fiberglass coated with silicone or laminated rubberized silicone.  There are many manufacturers of these type mats, Exopat and Fiberlux, to name two. They can withstand temperatures from  –40F to 580F and can be used thousands of times as baking mats, freezing mats, or non-stick surfaces to work bread and pastry doughs.  Since they are rather heavy, about the thickness of eight sheets of paper, these mats lay flat and can be worked upon without them moving about or buckling.  Indeed, cookies and other firm dough products can be baked directly on these mats with only an oven rack supporting them.  It should be noted that at least one manufacturer (Matfer/Exopat) advises against cutting them due to their fibrous construction.  The same material has been used to create molds for pastries and baked goods.  Just pour in the dough, bake, and flex-pop the product out of the “Elastomold.”  Neato!

Super Parchment is another baking mat.  Specifically, it’s a “Teflon-coated bakeware liner” only about as thick as a single sheet of paper—more like parchment paper than the heavier silicone mats—hence the name.  They are light, durable and cheap, about $6.00 each.  Also, they can be cut and trimmed to fit any cookie sheet or pie pan.  While not suitable as a work surface, I much prefer their flexibility and ease in handling as sheet pan liners for baking cookies where I keep four pans going, each with a Super Parchment liner. They appear no worse for wear, after about three years of use.   If you bake a lot at home, Super Parchment is super.

Baking Mats are available in most kitchen supply stores.  For other sources on the Internet, just search for “baking mats” or “super parchment” at google.com.


The Oval Fish Fry Pan, At Last

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009

I favor heavy copper copper pots and pans: pots lined with tin and pans lined with stainless steel (a matter of cost).  For years, The Little Woman and I have gone back and forth over my desire to get an oval fish fry pan. Reservations being (and I agree) that it is not very versatile, it’s two feet long and heavy enough to strain the hanging pot rack. But, it’s designed to quick fry sole, turbot, catfish, trout and other thin fish filets.  No pan does it better if you know how to use it.

Prep the filets with S/P, flour and maybe an egg wash topped with Panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) for the catfish and trout , add EVOO or peanut oil to the pan, heat the oil to hot, slip in the fish fillet, swish it about for a couple minutes, flip it, do the other side and slide it onto a heated plate. You can then dress the fish with a little lemon butter and a some capers thrown in.  Simple, elegant.

This pan is made in France by Bourgeat now owned by Matfer, a large French kitchen and bakery equipment company. Bourgeat is also featured in my article on the hybrid chef’s pan or evaseé. Knife Merchant carries them at a good price, but be prepared for sticker shock. Text