David Chang, chef/author of the best selling cookbook, Momofuku (see below), likes kimchi, and so too his readers. Well . . ., the Koreans have been serving it most meals since the 16th century. Kimchi is combination of cabbage, other veggies and bold seasonings pickled in vinegar and then fermented to produce a pungent spicy hot condiment. It serves well also as the supporting ingredient to wok-prepared or stir fried meat and fish dishes. It likes rice. Recipes for the stuff abound: “winter” kimchi is hot, “summer” kimchi is more fresh and light. In the West, it comes in glass jars and is often make with napa cabbage and spicy but not flaming hot peppers, ginger and garlic. It keeps forever in the fridge.
So, after reading and thoroughly enjoying Momofuku, TLW found a kimchi and pork recipe in the latest issue of Fine Cooking, (they read the book too). “Let’s have a couple over and make this in the wok fired on the Blue Star,” said she. Here we have the results inspired by the Fine Cooking recipe. This dish is best prepared a la minute with guests watching the show. Have courage! Do it. It takes about five minutes, if you have your mise en place.
Wok Stirred Pork and Kimchi
1. pork tenderloin, cut in quarter inch slices and then into half inch strips
2 T soy sauce
4 T grapeseed oil or peanut oil
8 oz fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and hand-brokened into quarters
8 scallions cut in 1.5 inch lengths, white and green
16 broccoli, small flowerettes (not shown in photo–forgot)
1 T garlic, pureed
3.5 C kimchi, drained and coarsely chopped
4 T mirin (sweetened sake) or white wine and some sugar
1/2 t sesame oil (for aoma–not taste)
1/4 C beef or chicken broth
2 T white and black sesame seeds, toasted
1. Prep pork, toss with a tablespoon of soy sauce and set aside
2. Prep mushrooms and veggies and have them lined up ready to pop into the wok
3. Add 2 T of oil to the wok, heat gently and swirl carefully up the sides
4. Heat the oil to shiny hot and then add the marinated pork (don’t splash)
5. When pork strips break free of the bottom, stir or toss until pork is whitened but rare
6. Scoop out the pork and hold in a clean container (not the one used to marinate)
7. Add 2 more tablespoons of oil and when very hot, slowly add the scallions, mushroom, garlic and broccoli,
in that order–about three minutes for this step
8. Add the kimchi, another tablespoon of soy sauce, a few drops of sesame oil and toss or stir
9. At this point, if the whole mess looks too dry (no sauce for the rice), add some broth and BTB
10. Serve immediately in heated bowls over rice with maybe a side of Asian Cucumbers
11. Garnish with the toasted sesame seeds
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I just received this cookbook and its similarity to Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook is striking. The books are identical in size, weight and paper quality, the photography is spectacular, tutorials are revealing and the scope is broad. The foreword by Keller, makes the connection unmistakable. So we have another cookbook for chefs and experienced home cooks. But second glance suggests that Happy in the Kitchen has recipes that are more approachable. To that end, Michel Richard has added a 13 page “basics” section that presents stocks, dressings, dough, and other
Robert Wolke is a retired university chemistry professor who around 1998, morphed into a food chemistry columnist for The Washington Post. His award winning column, Food 101, makes for good reading–educational and as well as entertaining, as they say. Since the Post is my local paper, I’ve been reading his stuff from day one. The 





We stumbled upon the Emeril Lagasse Show on TV one evening where he had a guest chef stirring up some crab cakes, with a coconut/panko crust, while also making an interesting tomatillo salsa to go with the cakes. It all looked familiar but interesting. Familiar, because we have crab cakes every six weeks or so, following a trip to Costco, where I always pick up a can of crab meat. Interesting, because it turned out that the guest chef, Tom Douglas, was really on the show to plug his new cookbook, I Love Crab Cakes!. Well, we do too (my own recipe is posted (
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The
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