Archive for January, 2010

In this Momofuku Era, Kimchi is Flying Off the Market Shelves

Saturday, January 30th, 2010

David Chang, chef/author of the best selling cookbook, Momofuku (see below), likes kimchi, and so too his readers.  Well . . ., the Koreans have been serving it most meals since the 16th century.  Kimchi is combination of cabbage, other veggies and bold seasonings pickled in vinegar and then fermented to produce a pungent spicy hot condiment.  It serves well also as the supporting ingredient to wok-prepared or stir fried meat and fish dishes. It likes rice.  Recipes for the stuff abound:  “winter” kimchi is hot, “summer” kimchi is more fresh and light.  In the West, it comes in glass jars and is often make with napa cabbage and spicy but not flaming hot peppers, ginger and garlic.  It keeps forever in the fridge.

So, after reading and thoroughly enjoying Momofuku, TLW found a kimchi and pork recipe in the latest issue of Fine Cooking, (they read the book too).  “Let’s have a couple over and make this in the wok fired on the Blue Star,” said she.  Here we have the results inspired by the Fine Cooking recipe.  This dish is best prepared a la minute with guests watching the show. Have courage!  Do it. It takes about five minutes, if you have your mise en place.

Wok Stirred Pork and Kimchi
1.         pork tenderloin, cut in quarter inch slices and then into half inch strips
2 T       soy sauce
4 T       grapeseed oil or peanut oil
8 oz      fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and hand-brokened into quarters
8          scallions cut in 1.5 inch lengths, white and green
16        broccoli, small flowerettes (not shown in photo–forgot)
1 T       garlic, pureed
3.5 C    kimchi, drained and coarsely chopped
4 T       mirin (sweetened sake) or white wine and some sugar
1/2 t     sesame oil (for aoma–not taste)
1/4 C   beef or chicken broth
2 T       white and black sesame seeds, toasted

1.  Prep pork, toss with a tablespoon of soy sauce and set aside
2.  Prep mushrooms and veggies and have them lined up ready to pop into the wok
3.  Add 2 T of oil to the wok, heat gently and swirl carefully up the sides
4.  Heat the oil to shiny hot and then add the marinated pork (don’t splash)
5.  When pork strips break free of the bottom, stir or toss until pork is whitened but rare
6.  Scoop out the pork and hold in a clean container (not the one used to marinate)
7.  Add 2 more tablespoons of oil and when very hot, slowly add the scallions, mushroom, garlic and broccoli,
in that order–about three minutes for this step
8.  Add the kimchi, another tablespoon of soy sauce, a few drops of sesame oil and toss or stir
9.  At this point, if the whole mess looks too dry (no sauce for the rice), add some broth and BTB
10.  Serve immediately in heated bowls over rice with maybe a side of Asian Cucumbers
11.  Garnish with the toasted sesame seeds

A Very Useful and User-Friendly Reference Book

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

Culinary reference books, such as this one, Schneider’s Vegetables From Amaranth to Zucchini and Dornburg and Page’s Culinary Artistry, enable the curious, bold, adventurous or just plain bored-over-the-years cook to explore the origin of culinary ingredients and get some fresh ideas on how to use them and what to use them with.  Ian Hemphil and family are Australia’s counterpart to our Pensey family, that is, folks in the spice trade for generations.  This paperback includes information on more than 100 spices and herbs.  Each entry includes origin, buying and storage, uses and combinations, suggested quantities and a recipe or two.  Spices are grouped as sweet, pungent, tangy, hot and amalgamating, which is nice to know when you need to do a substitution or want  to mix things together. To that end, Hemphill provides a very useful “Spice and Herb Combination Pyramid” as a preface to listing the ingredients of 35 traditional spice blends, such as Fines Herbes, Ras el Hanout, Garam Masala and, of course, Aussie Bush Pepper Mix.  Not that you will spend a Saturday afternoon mixing your own spice blends, but knowing what’s in them will enable the experienced cook to refine seasoned dishes. The introduction provides a nice history of the spice trade and national preferences, as well as a few tidbits, such as the observation that:  “Some cooks may incorrectly tell you that roasting spices brings out the flavor.  Roasting spices changes the flavor.”  Curiously, information on spice and herb storage does not include vacuum sealing, a most effective method, now widely available in commercial and home kitchens. The book is a co-winner of the reference book of the year, awarded by IACP.


At Last, a Sequel to The French Laundry Cookbook?
I just received this cookbook and its similarity to Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry Cookbook is striking.  The books are identical in size, weight and paper quality, the  photography is spectacular, tutorials are revealing and the scope is broad. The foreword by Keller, makes the connection unmistakable.  So we have another cookbook for chefs and experienced home cooks.  But second glance suggests that Happy in the Kitchen has recipes that are more approachable. To that end, Michel Richard has added a 13 page “basics” section that presents stocks, dressings, dough, and other mise en place.He also prefaces the book with a “tool box” section of all of his kitchen gadgets.


A Sequel to a Good Book
Robert Wolke is a retired university chemistry professor who around 1998, morphed into a food chemistry columnist for The Washington Post.  His award winning column, Food 101, makes for good reading–educational and as well as entertaining, as they say. Since the Post is my local paper, I’ve been reading his stuff from day one.  The first book and this sequel are essentially compilations of his articles.  Volume 2 is bigger, more broad in scope and, in the author’s own words: “. . .somewhat deeper and richer in science than the previous one, in recognition of the growing appetite for science among foodies, both avocation and professional.”
I liked the first book and this one even more.  While Harold McGee remains the essential reference on kitchen science for the professional, Wolke’s two volumes represent a significant contribution to the literature. “Wolke 2″ is very approachable, humorous and makes for great reading, while waiting for the dough to rise or the pot to boil.

How to Peel a Pineapple and Not Waste so Much of it

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010


Pineapples are usually peeled by slicing off the skin with a deep cut that removes the skin and all the eyes.  OK, its quick but a lot of pineapple is tossed out with the skin.  A better method is to slice off the skin with a shallow cut, leaving the most of the eyes.

Notice that the eyes have a pattern to them that can be lined up to cut out, 3 or 4 at a time, with a sharp paring knife making v-shaped cuts.

This method leaves a lot more pineapple on the pineapple.


Then quarter the fruit, trim off the hard part, dice and place in containers to cool.  A $4.75 pineapple yields two nice containers of chunks that go for $4.50 each at the market.

Waste not, want not . . .


A Very Good Single Subject Cookbook

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

We stumbled upon the Emeril Lagasse Show on TV one evening where he had a guest chef stirring up some crab cakes, with a coconut/panko crust, while also making an interesting tomatillo salsa to go with the cakes.  It all looked familiar but interesting.  Familiar, because we have crab cakes every six weeks or so, following a trip to Costco, where I always pick up a can of crab meat.  Interesting, because it turned out that the guest chef, Tom Douglas, was really on the show to plug his new cookbook, I Love Crab Cakes!.   Well, we do too (my own recipe is posted (here). So, I really don’t need a book on crab cakes.

Nonetheless, I poked about on Amazon.com, found the book and its table of contents.  I discovered that this guy not only shares my view that canned crab meat is OK, he even has a recipe entitled “Costco Quickie.”  He also likes to use Panko, tomatillos and lots of celantro.  My kind of cook!  So why not help him out and buy his book?

Glad I did.  Douglas’s book plan was to call every chef he knew and ask each for their signature crab cake recipe.  As a result, the book covers the subject thoroughly from American classics to Asian and European variations;  from crab cakes for dinner to breakfast to brunch;  from hot to cold with, of course, crab cake sandwiches. Included are eighteen sauces and salsas.  A lot of good ideas in this book.  The recipes read well and the photos are great.

Food Writing–1770 to 2006

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Back in 2002 and the beginning of this Web site, I commented on a book entitled Best Food Writing 2001. It was OK but a little thin.  Small data base.  Molly O’Neill, herself a food writer, notes in her introduction to this book that “Food keeps one in the present.”  With that in mind, O’Neill gathered together good food writing cast over the life of this great nation–big data base.  Over 110 articles spanning some 236 years.  She has rounded up the familiar, from Thomas Jefferson on ice cream to Alice Waters on the farm-restaurant connection, along with an amuse-bouche from most literate chefs of the last 100 years.  But H. L. Mencken, S. J. Perelman and Ogden Nash are real finds. The articles are short. This is a coffee table book, a waiting room book, something to browse in the kitchen between stirs of the risotto or to take along to the next chemo session.   There are classic recipes too, including Julia Child’s canonical Cog au Vin–my first attempt at fine cuisine cooking (circa 1966).  In the aggregate, the articles and recipes present a story of food in the life of America. This is a really good read.

A New Edition Of The Canonical Food Reference Book

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

The Food Lover’s Companion, first published in 1990, and now in its fourth edition, with 6700 entries from abalone to zwieback, has become the reference book for foodies.  It is encyclopedic but brief, it is the spelling reference for food and menu writers, its entries include description, origin, current relevance and often cooking conventions.  The 57 page appendix is quite inclusive from substitution charts to seasoning suggestions.  The author, Sharon Herbst, died last February, so this edition is co-authored with her husband.  It is indeed my companion–the only book on my desk (other than a copy of the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution of the United States of America).  Come to think of it, they’re sort of in the same league.  Well, not really, but . . .

Moroccan Modern

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Braising is the favored cooking method all along the Mediterranean littoral.  Only the spices change.  I first started singing the praises of the tagine as a braising “Dutch oven for two” over five years ago on this Web site.  So, when Sur La Table ran a catalog feature on tagines and featured this book, I got it in hopes of getting some new tagine ideas.  M’Souli offers but four tagine recipes, all very nice, but a disappointment nonetheless.  Ah, but there’s more.

The book, gorgeously photographed, is filled with quite simple recipes for many light dishes and sides.  Dressings, tapenades, dips, sauces, glazes, salads –all infused with the spices of Morocco, such as his Moroccan Glazed Carrot Salad.  Savory dishes feature lamb, chicken and fish.  How about his Cilantro Chicken with Crispy Cumin Potato Skins?  The grain of choice, of course, is couscous prepared by M’Souli in the same manner as I was taught in school (sans couscoussier) by our French-Algerian master chef.  We love couscous and look forward to preparing it with Hassan’s couscous recipes for salad, lamb, chicken, seafood and even dessert. The book has a nice functional introduction on spices and ingredients endemic to Moroccan cooking.  The informed reader can make the case that Paula Wolfert’s books are more authoritative, but M’Souli’s Moroccan Modern is more fun, more approachable and a visual delight.  The Little Woman already has marked five recipes as “must trys.”  This is a very inviting  tour of Moroccan cuisine.  It’s hard to put down.

I put off reading this for four weeks . . .

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

A dear neighbor laid this book upon me undoubtedly without malice, but one look at the cover and flaps gave me the quaking dreadfuls.  Good grief, another book by an elite urban food phobic undoubtedly reveling in advanced wellness hypochondria, I assumed.  Well, Pollan is an elite urban writer.  No doubt about that.  What more damning proof could possibly trump his resume, which states he writes for the NYT and lectures at Berkeley. So, the tome languished on the desk for a month moved only by the cleaning lady.  Finally, professional curiosity compelled me to pick the darn thing up and start reading it.  What a surprise–20 pages into the book and not a politically correct whine, whimper or preachment, albeit I detected unstated assumptions of the author’s superior ways and advanced thinking. But what the hey, press on regardless.

I learned a lot in the first and second part of the book:  about big corn and its industrial food chain;  about a “grass farmer” down the road from us here in Virginia running an intense operation raising grass fed critters for market;  about the canonical evils of McDonalds but also their good influences in the slaughter house; about Whole Foods and the industrial organic food chain–now a $20B industry.  Interlaced in all this are the author’s thoughts on the killing of animals for food, on vegetarianism, on animal rights, on animal welfare and the realities of feeding the multitudes –all with a measured and thoughtful hand.

I’m at peace with all this on the basis that there is, without exception, death in dinner.  Be it bacteria swallowed into an acid bath as one drinks water, munching a carrot or dining on a grilled chicken.  I once observed four boxwoods, planted in April, shut down and appear dead in the dry heat of August only to come alive the following spring–all four of them.  Do boxwoods communicate?  By extension, who is to say that there is not some primordial scream from a carrot as it is ripped from its earth womb?

I enjoyed the book, the banner of this Web site notwithstanding.  But don’t log in every week waiting for my first vegetarian menu.

I Swear This Is The Last Review Of A PC Foodie Book

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Michael Pollan has another best seller following The Omnivore’s Dilemma. In this short book, Pollan takes on “Nutritionism” i.e., the now established belief that the key to understanding foods is to identify their nutrients. “Foods are essentially the sum of their nutritional parts.” For decades, nutritionists have woven a complex web of confusing science much exploited by the food industry, which has filled the super markets with nutrient modified foods.  Consumers, none the wiser, are eating some pretty awful stuff instead of real food that comes from good ground.  It’s a good story, with lots of villains and victims.

It’s rather convincing too.  With this book in hand, I remembered my Aunt Pauline who was the dietitian, in the 40s and 50s, at the city hospital in Indianapolis.  But there are no dietitians today.  They have morphed into nutritionists. Pollen’s right, the whole profession went from macroanalysis to microanalysis, from diet profiles of whole foods to fat, carbo and protein counts in whatever food carries them.

Pollan’s mantra is on the cover and the first page of the book.  “Eat food, not too much.  Mostly plants.”  Here he joins Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s buy better:eat less.  Both authors are preaching to the choir of food phobics and wellness hypocondriacs who love to worry about their food.  Indeed, Pollan identifies this anxious and worrisome cohort as “orthorexics.”  An new eating disorder, ripe for medical intervention.

But there is something more here, or I wouldn’t waste your time with these books.  It’s obvious if you think about it:  Buy, prepare and eat good food.  Work that out however you like.  But give it a go.  These books might help.

No Surprise: Meat Wins The 2008 James Beard Foundation’s Cookbook of The Year and Single Subject Cookbook Awards

Thursday, January 21st, 2010

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (HFW) is well known in Great Britain as a farmer, TV teaching chef, advocate and food writer.  This guy loves meat and is unapologetic about it.  His heartburn is over what he describes as the badly raised, processed, marketed and prepared meat products that dominate big agriculture and pervade the market place worldwide.   In the opening pages of this beautifully produced book,   HFW puts forth his “meat manifesto” the gist of which is that there is a “moral dimension” in our dealings with meat that centers upon, or should center upon, good husbandry and respect for the animals from which our meat comes and extends to how it is prepared for market and how we prepare it for our table.  My views on good husbandry and respect a little later …

So, is HFW another urban  political foodie elitist running against the wind?  Yes, but it is hard to blow off the idea that man has responsibilities regarding the raising and slaughter of animals for food and, therefore, that we have options (albeit within our means) to buy meat that reflects these responsibilities.  “Buy better: eat less” is the operative mantra.

HFW devotes the first part of his book to understanding meat, wherein he defines “good meat” and then applies it to the purchase and preparation of beef, veal, lamb, mutton, pork, poultry and game.  Part two is about classic cooking methods–roasting, slow and fast cooking, barbecuing and the preparation of forcemeats–with recipes.  In all, HFW is well schooled, trained and informed.  And since he’s British, the American reader will find his take on things refreshing and innovative.  For example, his recipe for Boston Baked Beans and the accompanying photo remove all doubt that the British have forgiven us for the Boston Tea Party.

This is an important book about food and a virtual manifesto about meat that challenges the way we go about provisioning our table  Yet it is light hearted enough to be fun to read.  Not to mention its lush photos and recipes too.

To my observation, the idea of good husbandry is impossible to fault on its own merits.  Read about the “good” farms in Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma (see below) or the critical control points of basic good husbandry in the slaughterhouse in Grandin’s Animals in Translation.  Further, in my view, respect for food and its preparation is an implicit fundamental of good cooking. Without respect for food deeply embedded or pounded into you through training with good teachers (be they moms or chefs), you can’t be a good cook.  At best, you’re just a participant in a refereed food fight.

Lobby your librarian or buy the book.